3 min readfrom Beauty

Comparing 3 AzA 15% serums by INCI — can penetration enhancers tell us which one actually works better?

Hi guys, I want to get some opinions.

I have PIE and acne, and I'm looking for an azelaic acid serum/product.

I've been reading about AzA and how difficult it is to solubilize in water, and also how hard it is to get a meaningful amount of AzA to actually penetrate the skin (stratum corneum) in the first place. I know this isn't 100% accurate, but can I compare different AzA products and estimate how effective they'd be based on their penetration enhancer ingredients?

I found a few:

Product 1 - Serum which has 15% Aza– has MSM at 1%

Ingredients: Water/Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Sulfone, Propanediol, Betaine, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

  1. Product 2 - Serum which has 15% Aza -

Ingredients: Water, Azelaic Acid, DPG, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Tromethamine, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-6, PEG-32, Panthenol, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Gluconolactone, Succinic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer-2-Sodium, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, BG, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose

  1. Cream/Lotion Texture 15% Aza

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Betaine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Sclerotium Gum, Chlorphenesin, Escin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Citric Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Sodium Citrate

My questions are:

  1. Looking at these INCIs, can we rank them by efficacy given they're all 15%?

  2. In serums like Cos de BAHA (and I'm guessing this isn't specific to them — most AzA serums seem to use PG as the second ingredient after water) — what's the typical percentage range of PG used? I'm asking because I've been reading about how long-term PG use could potentially cause skin barrier issues. I get that there's no definitive yes or no on this, and I also understand it's going to be very person-specific — someone might not tolerate AHA at 10% while someone else uses it daily with no barrier damage. And yes, I know the mechanism of penetration with AHA is completely different, just bringing it up as a comparison.

  3. Which of these would be the most barrier-friendly while still performing well for hormonal acne, PIE, etc.?

submitted by /u/LightKitchen8265
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Tagged with

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#MSM
#propylene glycol
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#skin barrier
#ingredients
#centella asiatica
#panthenol
#tolerance
#hormonal acne
#propanediol
#Glycyrrhizate
#aqueous solution
#crosspolymer