3 days in Quetzaltenango

Had the most amazing time visiting Guatemala for 3 weeks in late August / early September and spent 3 full days in Xela. At first we were going to Guatemala for 2 weeks but ended up adding another week to fully see the country without rushing, so we added Xela, Semuc Champey and an extra day for Lake Atitlán; it was definitely the best decision we made.

When we got to Quetzaltenango, it was our third day in the country (we'd spent 2 days in Antigua prior) and it became apparent that we were entering a whole new Guatemala, one we weren't going to find anywhere else on the trip. At first we felt like the only tourists in the city (obviously not the case haha) and a little overwhelmed, as it was our first time in such a different place than we were used to when traveling. But coming from Barcelona, and speaking the same language, of course made it easier to adapt and feel welcome; and so little by little we began getting into the vibe of the city and enjoying it a lot.

Antigua is stunning and rightfully popular, but sometimes it felt like a polished version of Guatemala if that makes sense, built for us tourists. Xela felt like the real thing. Just a city living its own life, at its own pace, largely indifferent to tourism at large. That hit us on the first hour of arriving.

1) Parque Centro América
2) Xelapan
3) Shop in Mercado Municipal
4) Some tacos we had at a street food stall near Parque Centro América
5) We bought three different fabrics and took them to a tailor to have the edges embroidered so we could bring home our own tablecloths
6) Women entering the Cementerio General, an immense cemetery
7) Cementerio General
8) We took part in a weaving workshop with a wonderful association of women dedicated to artisanal development.
9) Trying more local street food
10) Volcán Chicabal, known for the lake sitting in its crater
11) The incredibly steep steps descending into the crater. We hiked 9km to the base, around the lake and back. The mist rolls into the crater incredibly fast, reducing visibility to almost nothing at times.
12) The famous Caldo de Res and Caldo de Pata.
13) Last sunset in Xela.

Xelapan deserves a special mention, it's a local bakery chain only in Xela, and walking in feels like stepping into everyday life for a guatemalan. Locals pop in and out constantly, the smell is overwhelming in the best way and the variety is something else. We went back a couple of times during our stay, we would take the basket in the entrance and fill it with fresh bread and pastries.

Also, the weaving workshop was one of the most unexpected and enriching experiences of the whole trip. The women teaching us were patient and warm. One of them told us that in guatemalan culture it's considered rude to decline when someone offers you food or drink, something to reflect on how many times, as tourists, we instinctively say no out of habit. She also mentioned that if you're eating on the street and children stop to watch you, th epolite thing to do is offer them even a little of what you're having. That was the kind of advice that change how you move through a place.

All in all, these days were some of the best we experienced traveling. There's something remarkable about the reward of opening your mind to different cultures and different ways of living; it's what makes traveling so worth it.