Volufiline Is Said To Be "FillerIn A Bottle" – But Does The Ingredient Work?
With new products, brands, and categories popping up every day, beauty can be a bit overwhelming. Back to Basics is our rudimentary beauty series that serves as your crash course on the science behind some of the best formulations in the game. This week, we’re taking a look at Volufiline.
For one relatively brief, full-cheeked moment in the late 2010s to early 2020s, it seemed as though fillers were everywhere. The injectables skyrocketed in popularity thanks to their ability to smooth wrinkles, plump up hollower areas of the face (like under the eyes), and generally cultivate a more vibrant appearance. But what goes up must come down, and over the last few years, many have lowered their doses and even had them dissolved. Still, people crave that filler-like effect, albeit more subtly. And according to some on the internet, Volufiline, a buzzy new skin care ingredient, is the way to get it.
Popping up in a variety of K-Beauty and niche skin care products — and, subsequently, all over the faces of TikTok influencers — some of Volufiline’s biggest fans have made a pretty bold claim: That the topical ingredient, which is primarily found in serums and creams, is “filler in a bottle.”
Can an over-the-counter topical ingredient really rival injectables administered in-office by a medical provider? TZR spoke with two board-certified dermatologists to get the 411 on Volufiline, including what it is, how it can be used, and, of course, how much it does — or doesn’t — live up to the hype.
What Is Volufiline?
Volufiline is a trademarked, patented skin care ingredient “marketed as a topical alternative to fillers by claiming to promote fat-cell differentiation and lipid storage, creating a fuller appearance,” says Dr. Kseniya Kobets, MD, director of cosmetic dermatology at New York’s Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care Dermatology.
Digging in a bit deeper (pun not intended), “the active component in Volufiline supposedly encourages existing fat cells to store more lipids and aids in the maturation of new fat cells, leading to [claims of] increased volume in the deepest layers of the skin,” explains Dr. Deborah R. Spey, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in New Jersey.
Volufiline is “made from a plant-derived compound called sarsasapogenin that’s carried in a moisturizing base,” says Kobets. The plant from which sarsasapogenin is derived, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, is a popular ingredient in Chinese and Korean medicine valued for its anti-inflammatory properties.
What Are the Benefits of Volufiline?
After using a product with Volufiline, you might notice softer, plumped-up skin — but that doesn’t necessarily mean it's Volufiline’s doing. “I suspect much of that comes from the overall formulation— ingredients like squalane, humectants, emollients, and other barrier-supporting ingredients that hydrate the skin and temporarily soften fine lines,” says Kobets. “Based on the current evidence, I’m not convinced that topical Volufiline itself meaningfully increases facial fat or restores lost volume.”
So… Is It Really A Replacement For Filler?
As you’ve probably already gleaned, the experts say you shouldn’t cancel that cosmetic dermatologist appointment just yet. For one, as Spey notes, topicals in general “can only penetrate so far into a much more superficial layer of skin,” as opposed to “the deeper structural planes of subcutaneous fat layers, where hyaluronic acid fillers are injected.”
Then there’s the matter of the ingredient itself. “There is very limited scientific data on Volufiline's effectiveness [and] any reported plumping effects have been quite modest,” says Spey. “It is intended to be used as a skin-plumping agent, not a replacement for dermal fillers.” Kobets concurs: “That proposed mechanism is based largely on manufacturer data and limited preclinical research, and it hasn’t been convincingly demonstrated in human skin,” she says.
Simply put: “At this point, we simply don’t have robust independent clinical studies showing that topical Volufiline can meaningfully restore facial volume,” says Kobets.
Who Can (& Can’t) Use Volufiline?
While it might not deliver instant supermodel cheekbones or turn back the clock on your laxity, “someone who enjoys skin care, has mild dehydration or early fine lines, and understands that the results are likely to be subtle may enjoy trying it,” says Kobets.
You might want to steer clear if you’re oily, says Spey, and exercise caution if you’re acne-prone in general; with those skin types, “avoid very heavy or highly occlusive formulas,” says Kobets. “If you have sensitive skin, look for fragrance-free products and patch-test first.” Additionally, Spey notes that it “has not been tested for use in pregnant women.”
And (again!) both experts recommend tempering your expectations. “I would be much more cautious [if someone expects] it to replace fillers or meaningfully improve under-eye hollows, temples, or age-related facial volume loss,” says Kobets.
How To Incorporate Volufiline Into Your Routine
If you do decide to pick up a product or two containing Volufiline, simply use as directed — what’s more important is that you keep using everything else in your routine. “Don’t neglect the skincare fundamentals like sunscreen, retinoids, antioxidants, and barrier-supporting ingredients, which have much stronger evidence for improving skin quality over time,” says Kobets. Among those antioxidants and barrier-boosters, “it is best to pair Volufiline with other cosmeceutical ingredients such as peptides, ceramides, squalene, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and growth factors,” says Spey.
Shop Volufiline Skin Care Products
Volufiline 92% + Pal-Isoleucine 1%
“While I have never used Volufiline personally, The Ordinary Volufiline 92% + Pal-Isoleucine 1% Plumping Anhydrous Serum has the right balance of key ingredients, gets great reviews, and has a modest price point,” says Spey.
The Ordinary -
PDRN Pink Collagen Volume Multi Balm
While she doesn’t recommend products simply because they contain Volufiline — instead focusing on overall formulation — Kobets likes Medicube’s PDRN Pink Collagen Volume Multi Balm “because it’s relatively affordable and combines several moisturizing and skin-conditioning ingredients in an elegant formula.”
Medicube -
Deep Collagen Power Boosting Cream In Serum
Sungboon Editor’s Deep Collagen Power Boosting Cream In Serum is a lightweight hydrator with a unique formulation — serum on the bottom (an ampoule of collagen, for skin firming and wrinkle smoothing) and cream on the top (Volufiline). Shake before use and apply right before your moisturizer for plumping.
Sungboon Editor -
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